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Painting a kitchen :: Posted by: Admin on January 15th, 2014

Kitchen

Painting a kitchen

A kitchen tends to be the hub of any household, it’s where everyone seems to meet, eat and organise everything. So because this room is used so much and lived in a lot it may get dirty and grimey, especially with cooking fumes.

Ceilings can look yellowish, walls can get splashes of water, grease and food on them. So from time to time you may wish to freshen up the paintwork in your kitchen.

Before you begin painting

Before you start to paint you should remove and grease splashes on the surfaces you are going to paint, this may even include the ceiling! Sugar soap or a similar product is best for this job, don’t forget the woodwork also.

Also, if you have pets such as dogs, they often shake water off themselves when they have been outside, this goes everywhere, so it is worth wiping the walls over to remove the grime.

Paint choice

When it comes to choosing the paint, and by this I mean the finish rather than the colour. It is best to choose a hard wearing paint, one than can be wiped over if it gets dirty. You can by ‘Kitchen paint’ that is specially formulated to resist grease and grime, but this paint is normally more expensive that standard paints.

Some people prefer silk emulsion as this can be wiped off and due to its high vinyl content doesn’t rub off, like some matt emulsions can after time.

Once you have decided on the paint you wish to buy, you can use this paint calculator to work out how many litres you need to buy. All you need to know is the width and height of the area to paint, and how far a litre of the paint will go, often referred to as coverage, if the tin says how much for that tin, divide the amount by how many litres in the tin, so 5 litres that covers 65 sq m then divide 65 by 5 to give you how much 1 litre covers, in this example 13 sq m.

Painting the kitchen

Firstly you will need to cover the floor and kitchen units with dust sheets to prevent paint splashes, once you have done this you can begin to paint, start with the ceiling and any coving you may have, then once you have done two coats on the ceiling you can begin with the walls.

You should ‘cut in’ around kitchen units and use a roller to fill in. It maybe easier to remove the drawers and door closest to the wall to avoid getting paint on them, these are easily removed and replaced.

Once you have done two coats on the walls you can paint the woodwork, if you have any. Give the woodwork a light rub down, then an undercoat followed by a topcoat, such as gloss or satinwood.

Finishing off

Once you have finished painting and it has all dried, you can then put everything back into the kitchen and enjoy your newly decorated kitchen. You can add some artwork to your walls, maybe a new kettle or toaster could finish the transformation.

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How to measure for ceiling paper :: Posted by: Admin on October 2nd, 2012

How to measure your ceiling for ceiling paper

You may have a ceiling that is badly cracked or maybe the ceiling may of already been papered, whatever the reason for wallpapering a ceiling you are going to need to know how much paper you need to buy. Most commonly ceilings are papered with a thick paper such as 1400 gauge lining paper, an embossed paper or Anaglypta paper. If your ceiling is cracked you will still need to fill the cracks and rub them down before papering otherwise they will show.

Measuring for ceiling paper

To measure for ceiling paper you will need the following:

  • A notepad
  • A pen or pencil
  • A tape measure

To measure for ceiling paper, measure the room at its longest point. Allow a little extra at each end for trimming. Write this figure on your notepad. Now measure the room at it’s widest point, again allow a little for trimming. Note this down.

You also will need to know the length of the roll of wallpaper you are going to use, typically in the UK a single length roll is 10.05 metres, if you buy a double or quad length roll then these are obviously longer. Make a note of the length or roll on your notepad. You also are going to want to know the width of the paper, this varies but typical values are 52 or 53 cm for wallpaper and 56 cm for lining paper check with the wallpaper supplier if you are not sure of length and width of a roll of paper.

Graphic of decorator measuring ceiling

Calculating how many rolls of wallpaper needed

Once you have measured the length and width of the ceiling you are going to wallpaper and have made a note of the length and width of the wallpaper you can now go and use this great ceiling wallpaper calculator to work out how many rolls of wallpaper you need. If you measure in feet and inches the calculator allows you to convert these measurements into metric.

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Water Stains :: Posted by: Admin on March 27th, 2012

How to deal with a ceiling water stain

First fix the leak

Always ensure the source of the leak is fixed and allow enough time for the water to dry out before decorating.

Getting started

When the source of the leak has been fixed and the water has fully dried out, the first thing I do if the stain is in a small area or areas is identifying the stains by drawing around each stain with a pencil so it was easier to see when I used the stain block.

Once I have highlighted all the water stains with a pencil, using a brush (or gloss roller for larger areas) I paint over the stained areas with Polycell Stain Block to cover the stains. I know how far to go as I had drawn around the stains! Having covered the stains and pencil lines with the stain block, I would then prepare the rest of the ceiling as required, filling cracks etc, while I waited for the stain block to dry. Some stains may need a second coat of stain block, if so allow the stain block to fully dry between coats. Allow the stain block to dry fully before decorating with your chosen finish coat, such as white emulsion.

Alternative options to stain block

Some people use an oil-based / solvent-based paints such as gloss, undercoat or satinwood to block out the stain, I have done this in the past but would only recommend using satinwood or undercoat due to it’s sheen level.

The finishing touch

When you paint over the stain block, satinwood, or undercoat with the finish coat which is normally emulsion you will notice the emulsion takes longer to dry over the stain blocked area’s, this is normal and you need to wait for these area’s to fully dry before applying a second coat of emulsion.

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