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Prepairing the walls for lining paper :: Posted by: Admin on April 2nd, 2013

Preparing the walls for lining paper

If you are going to put lining paper on your walls, you still need to prepare them correctly before hanging it. Lining paper will not hide all the lumps and bumps on your walls, it isn’t a miracle cure for bad walls. You still need to put the time and effort into making the walls good before lining the walls. Lining paper is not an cheap answer to having your walls re-plastered or a way of not doing any preparation before hanging wallpaper or painting the walls.

Why use lining paper?

Lining paper is primarily used to line the walls and leave a good sound surface to wallpaper over. However, lining paper can be painted over. You can cross line the walls, this means hanging the wallpaper horizontally rather than vertically as you would with wallpaper. This is done to ensure the joins of the lining paper will not come in the same place as those of the wallpaper, however, lining paper is wider than most rolls of wallpaper so isn’t always required.

If you are going to paint over the lining paper be aware that the joints may show if the paper shrinks slightly, you can fill the gaps afterwards but be careful not to damage the paper when you rub the filler down.

Preparing the walls for lining paper

Wallpapering Tools

First things first, remove all existing wall coverings from the walls, then wash them down to remove as much of the old paste as you can. Like for any wallpapering, the walls must be dry, free from dust and flaking paint. Holes and cracks should be filled in using a powder filler and any joints around door frames, windows or ceiling should be filled with decorators caulk. Rawl plugs should be removed and the holes filled. All powder filler should be rubbed down to a smooth level finish otherwise it will show through the lining paper.

If the walls have badly flacking paint this should be removed with a scraper and if the walls are very dusty they may need sealing with a PVA sealer first.

Paint drips can also show through so remove these with a scrapper or by sanding them down.

Lining paper comes in different grades of thickness, known as gauges, they range from 800 – 2000, 2000 being the thickest. There are also specialist lining papers such as a thermal liner, this helps reduce heat loss and also fibreliner an alternative lining paper.

Once you have done all the preparation work you are then ready to hang lining paper on your walls.

If you want to work out how many rolls of lining paper, or wallpaper you require, then use this quick and easy wallpaper calculator. Its one of a range of decorating calculators.

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How to drill tiles :: Posted by: Admin on April 25th, 2012

How to drill through tiles

How many of you avoid drilling tiles in fear of cracking or breaking the tiles? Many of you I would imagine, well when you know how to drill tiles correctly the fear will be gone. This post is about drilling tiles that are already fixed, dried and grouted and not about drilling tiles that are not fixed to the wall or floor.

Getting started

Firstly gather all the tools you require for the job, they are:

  • Masking tape
  • A hammer drill / drill
  • A small masonry drill bit
  • A masonry drill bit the correct size for the rawl plug
  • Rawl plugs
  • A pen or pencil
  • A level
  • A hammer

Which drill bit do I use to drill tiles

A dedicated tile drill bit or a masonry drill bit are what you should use for drilling tiles, these drill bits are easy to spot as they have a wide tip which is tungsten carbide to make it really strong to go through masonry.

What drill do I need to drill tiles

Graphic of drill drilling into tiles

Any kind of drill will do, a battery drill is fine as long as it has enough power, you don’t need to have a hammer drill unless the wall or floor behind the tile is really hard. In most cases you can use a battery drill set to the ‘drill’ setting and masonry drill bits.

Drilling the tile

You need to decide where you are going to drill and where you are going to fit the item to the wall, making sure it will fit in the area before you drill. Once you know where to drill, take some masking tape and stick it to the tile. This is done for two reasons, firstly it’s easy to mark the drill hole and secondly it will help stop the drill bit from slipping around.

Now that you have the masking tape stuck on the tile where you want the hole or holes to be you can offer up the item to be fixed and mark the masking tape with your pen or pencil. You should check to make sure the item your fixing is level if need be.

Now take the small masonry drill bit and place it into the drill. If your drill has a setting, set the trigger adjustment to only go slowly. Now take the drill make sure it is on the drill setting, not the hammer or screw settings, place the end of the drill bit on your first mark on the tile. Make sure the drill is horizontal and vertical to avoid slipping, and slowly press the trigger. By having the drill go slowly it will go through the glaze of the tile, when your through the glaze stop and adjust the trigger so it goes in all the way. Now place the drill back into the hole you have started and drill through the remaining of the tile and into the wall. You may have to use the hammer setting once your through the tile to drill into the wall.

Do this same procedure for all the holes you need to drill. You ned to check how deep your hole needs to be, this will depend on what you are fitting but you should go a little deeper and I’ll explain why shortly. Next take your larger drill bit and re-drill the holes in the tile, start carefully and then drill all the way through into the wall.

Next, and here is the important bit, if you haven’t got rawl plugs with the item your fitting you need to get suitable ones for the job and the correct size. When you have the correct rawl plugs, place one in each hole, push them in as far as you can, then take a screw and put it into the rawl plug but only a turn or two, now take a hammer and VERY carefully tape the rawl plug into the tile, now, as long as you have a deep enough hole you should be able to tap the rawl plug through the tile and level with the wall or floor behind. The reason for doing this is as you screw into the rawl plug the plug expands (as it should to grip) but this will crack the tile if the plug isn’t deep enough or on the surface of the tile.

If your rawl plug has a flange on it you can cut this off with a knife to allow the plug to go through the tile.

So as long as you take your time and follow these tips you should be able to drill tiles without cracking or breaking them every time.

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