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How to fit roller blinds :: Posted by: Admin on June 1st, 2013

roller blind fitted in a window reveal

How to fit roller blinds

When you are fitting a roller blind you need to decide where you want to fit the blind, they can be either fitted either directly onto the window frame or in a window reveal, or on a wall outside of the reveal. The choice is yours and it may depend on the type of window you have or how you wish to use the blind.

Once you have decide where you are going to fit your blind, gather the tools required together. You will need:

Tools required to fit a roller blind

  • A stepladder (if the window is high)
  • A spirit level
  • A pencil
  • Safety goggles or glasses
  • A drill for drilling holes
  • A screwdriver or drill to screw in the screws
  • A Roller blind (these normally come with all the fixings required)
  • A tape measure
  • A small (junior) hacksaw
  • A sharp knife or scissors
  • Drill bits
  • Masking tape

Buying a roller blind

Before you buy your roller blind you need to measure the width and height of the window, check on the packaging of the blind that it is bigger than you require before you buy it. There are a wide range of blinds available in lots of different colours and designs, there are simple fabric ones to blackout blinds to help block out the sun and light, these are ideal for nurseries allowing your baby to sleep better during the day.

Fitting the brackets

If you’re fixing the brackets in the reveal, decide if they are going to be fitted onto the window frame or on the top part of the window reveal. You need to make sure that once the blind is fitted, that once unrolled it doesn’t catch or snag on the window furniture. So make sure the bracket it positioned correctly to avoid this.

Place the bracket into position, mark the two fixing holes with a pencil, remove the bracket and use a suitable drill to drill the holes, if you drill in masonry you will need to put rawl plugs into the holes once drilled, these are normally supplied with the blind. Screw the first bracket into position.

Now make sure the second bracket is at the same level as the first one and mark the hole positions as before, drill and screw this bracket into place.

Roller blind fitted on a face and not in reveal

Cutting the roller blind

Once the brackets are fitted it is time to cut and fit the blind. In most cases, unless you’re lucky, you will need to cut the roller blind down to the right width. To do this measure the distance between the two brackets with a tape measure, you will need to refer the the instructions that came with the blind as this will tell you how much to deduct for the brackets etc.

Unroll the blind out on a flat surface. Use the tape measure to mark the measurement of the distance between brackets less the amount stated in the instructions for brackets, mark this onto the cardboard or metal tube the roller blind bolls onto (the lath).

Wrap a length of masking tape around the tube over the line you marked, this will help the hacksaw from slipping as you cut. Cut all the way through the tube being careful not to damage the fabric.

Cutting the roller blind fabric

To cut the fabric, whilst the roller is laid out on a flat surface, mark the fabric in a few places down the length of the blind, you will need to refer to the instructions but typically the fabric is cut 2-3mm shorter then the width of the tube you have just cut, this allows the blind to be roller up without snagging on the pulley.

Once the fabric is marked, use your level or another straight edge to mark with a pencil a line from top to bottom, now use your sharp knife, or scissors. If you use a knife, use the spirit level to guide you but be careful not to damage your floor, dining table or kitchen worktop underneath the roller.

You will also need to trim the bar/weight that slots into the bottom of the blind, this should be as wide as the fabric. This bar normally has stop ends to go in the ends if it isn’t solid, so push them in now.

Assembling your roller blind

Now you have done all the preparation work, you can assemble and fit your roller blind. You should decide which end you wish to open and close the blind. Take the cord winder and push it into one end of the tube, make sure you put it in the correct end. Now take the other end, the pin end, push this into the tube.

Now take the roller blind, and put one end in the bracket and then push the other end into the other bracket. This will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so refer to the instruction leaflet.

Try the operation of the blind by pulling the cord.

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How to measure for ceiling paper :: Posted by: Admin on October 2nd, 2012

How to measure your ceiling for ceiling paper

You may have a ceiling that is badly cracked or maybe the ceiling may of already been papered, whatever the reason for wallpapering a ceiling you are going to need to know how much paper you need to buy. Most commonly ceilings are papered with a thick paper such as 1400 gauge lining paper, an embossed paper or Anaglypta paper. If your ceiling is cracked you will still need to fill the cracks and rub them down before papering otherwise they will show.

Measuring for ceiling paper

To measure for ceiling paper you will need the following:

  • A notepad
  • A pen or pencil
  • A tape measure

To measure for ceiling paper, measure the room at its longest point. Allow a little extra at each end for trimming. Write this figure on your notepad. Now measure the room at it’s widest point, again allow a little for trimming. Note this down.

You also will need to know the length of the roll of wallpaper you are going to use, typically in the UK a single length roll is 10.05 metres, if you buy a double or quad length roll then these are obviously longer. Make a note of the length or roll on your notepad. You also are going to want to know the width of the paper, this varies but typical values are 52 or 53 cm for wallpaper and 56 cm for lining paper check with the wallpaper supplier if you are not sure of length and width of a roll of paper.

Graphic of decorator measuring ceiling

Calculating how many rolls of wallpaper needed

Once you have measured the length and width of the ceiling you are going to wallpaper and have made a note of the length and width of the wallpaper you can now go and use this great ceiling wallpaper calculator to work out how many rolls of wallpaper you need. If you measure in feet and inches the calculator allows you to convert these measurements into metric.

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How to measure a room for wallpapering :: Posted by: Admin on June 1st, 2012

How to measure a room for wallpapering

If you are going to wallpaper a room, a feature wall, a hall, landing and stairs or even an entire house you will need some idea of how many rolls of wallpaper to buy. With the cost of wallpaper becoming more and more expensive and some shops only ordering in rolls rather than keeping stock you need to have a fairly good idea how many rolls of wallpaper you need. To do this you need to measure each room or area.

Measuring for wallpaper

To measure for wallpaper you will need the following:

  • A notepad
  • A pen or pencil
  • A tape measure

To measure a complete room for wallpaper, measure around the perimeter for the room, include all doors and windows if the paper goes over the top and /or under them. If you have a picture rail or if the paper does not go over the top of windows and doors only measure the papered area and note this down on your note pad.

Now you need to measure the height of the area to be papered, this may be from the skirting boards to the ceiling or coving / cornice, a picture rail or dado rail. Again make a note of this figure.
You can measure in either feet and inches or metric, it doesn’t matter.
Floor Plan Measure for wallpaper

Feature wall

If you are measuring for a feature wall the principle is the same as above except you only measure the one wall you wish to paper, again make a note of the measurements.

Hall, Landing, and stairs

If you are wallpapering a hallway or hall landing and stairs, again the principle is the same, just treat the upstairs and one room and the downstairs as another room, you can either add the measurements together of treat them as two separate measurements. For more details on measuring a hall, landing and stairs this post is a good resource.

Calculating how many rolls of wallpaper needed

Once you have measured the area you are going to wallpaper and have made a note of the perimeter and height you can now go and use this great wallpaper calculator to find out how many rolls of wallpaper you need. If you have measured in feet and inches the calculator allows you to convert these measurements into metric.

Watch this quick video to see how easy the wallpaper calculator is to use.

Lining paper

If you are going to line your walls with lining paper rather than wallpaper, measure the same way as described above and use the wallpaper calculator, this calculator allows for a standard roll of wallpaper (10.05m by 0.53m) and although lining paper tends to be wider at 0.56m the calculator will give you a guide number of rolls, and as lining paper is cheap if you end up with a roll over it doesn’t matter.

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Water Stains :: Posted by: Admin on March 27th, 2012

How to deal with a ceiling water stain

First fix the leak

Always ensure the source of the leak is fixed and allow enough time for the water to dry out before decorating.

Getting started

When the source of the leak has been fixed and the water has fully dried out, the first thing I do if the stain is in a small area or areas is identifying the stains by drawing around each stain with a pencil so it was easier to see when I used the stain block.

Once I have highlighted all the water stains with a pencil, using a brush (or gloss roller for larger areas) I paint over the stained areas with Polycell Stain Block to cover the stains. I know how far to go as I had drawn around the stains! Having covered the stains and pencil lines with the stain block, I would then prepare the rest of the ceiling as required, filling cracks etc, while I waited for the stain block to dry. Some stains may need a second coat of stain block, if so allow the stain block to fully dry between coats. Allow the stain block to dry fully before decorating with your chosen finish coat, such as white emulsion.

Alternative options to stain block

Some people use an oil-based / solvent-based paints such as gloss, undercoat or satinwood to block out the stain, I have done this in the past but would only recommend using satinwood or undercoat due to it’s sheen level.

The finishing touch

When you paint over the stain block, satinwood, or undercoat with the finish coat which is normally emulsion you will notice the emulsion takes longer to dry over the stain blocked area’s, this is normal and you need to wait for these area’s to fully dry before applying a second coat of emulsion.

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